Forget brand ..use your eyes/ears ....best suits I ever bought bought, from a greyhaired old guy in Vienna...best shoes from his grey haired 'cousin' in Budapest ....next best from an old and small manufacturer in the Lakes who takes them back every couple of years and for peanuts puts a brand new sole and lining on and in....they'll outlast me ...what's the common ingredient...it takes time to develop the very best expertise and it takes control of size to keep it